Build Log RV-10 #1

Blog for a Vans RV-10 Airplane Build

Empennage Fairings

Started September 15, 2010 - 4 hours so far

Needed a bit of a break from the fuel tanks, am also waiting for another batch of proseal from Vans.  So I started to work on the empennage fairings.

Read through the directions and they seem pretty straight forward as far as getting them fitted.  I am going to use the West Systems to fiberglass them so there a smooth transition from the fairings to the empennage parts.  The only one that will be removable will be the bottom fairing on the rudder.  This is just in case I need to get at the light and/or wiring.

Got all the fairings trimmed, fitted and sanded.  Before I rivet them to the empennage, i will be using proseal to attach strips of aluminum to the insides of the fairings as a better support for the rivets.  I do not want them pulling through the fiberglass.

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Horizontal Stabilizer

Started August 11, 2009  - 75 Hours

This section started off with the great job of  deburring.  All the  edges and lightning holes in the HS-1003 Rear Spar  and the doubler  plate.  Match drilled all holes in double plate and rear  spar.   Countersunk the two middle holes in the doubler plate.

On to  clecoing the hinge brackets to the rear spar and match drilled the  holes.

I then disassembled all the pieces to apply alumiprep,  alodine and Akzo  primer. Once dried, riveted everything together.

Next was to cleco the flange bearing between the two inboard hinge  brackets, final drill the six holes, deburr, then reassemble with  rivets, and the last step is to bolt it onto the rear spar assembly.

The next step consists of making two brackets out of angle  aluminum.   This was a pretty simple to do process, but when cutting one  of the  brackets, I accidentally cut on the wrong side of the line.   Stupid  mistake.  I will have to order a new piece of aluminum for Vans  tomorrow.

While waiting for the new angle piece to be shipped I  went on to the  next steps of cutting the spar caps and stringers.   This consists of  cutting the ends at an angle.  Using a band saw works  well to make the  initial cut, then sand flat with a belt sander.

Once these were cut, they needed to be deburred to remove any sharp  edge.  Used the scottbrite wheel for this. 

After deburring  the edges and lightning holes for the front spar, you  lay the spar caps  in place, clamp and match drill the holes on the spar  web.  Make sure  you do it on the web side and not the flange.  Just  about made this  error.  Once completed, you need to deburr all edges  re-assemble and  then match drill the holes in the flange.

The next step  involves attaching the brackets that were supposed to be  previously  made, but since I screwed up, skipped that step for now.

I then  clecoed the HS-1007 double plate to the front spar and match  drilled  all the holes.

Since I screwed up one of the HS-1008 angle pieces, I finished them  as  the new piece of angle aluminum came in from Vans today.

Once everything was deburred, I prepped and finished applying Akzo  Primer.  Once this was dry (the next day) it was time to start clecoing  everything back together and riveted per instructions, and attached  inboard hinge bracket assembly.

Now to where I left off on the  front spar.  Everything on the HS-1007  has been deburred and match  drilled and reassembled, I then attached the  HS-1008 spar attachment  brackets.  Make sure you have them on the right  side, the directions  show them backwards as for left and right.  it  depends on what side of  the stabilizer you have up.  Also, there are  some holes that should not  be drilled out, make sure you place tape to  keep them from being done.

After countersinking the eight holes on the doubler and the nine  on the  spar flange, everything was taken apart, deburred, alumiprep,  alodined,  and the primed with Akzo.

The last spar and parts  have now dried so it is time to start riveting  them together per  directions. Once done you have to make some  modifications to the  HS-1004 Inspar ribs.  Two have to be trimmed one  way, and two a little  more.  Not hard just something that needs to be  done.  They are slots  that hold the Long and Short Stringers.

In addition to the  trimming, the top and bottom of the Inspar ribs need  to be bent to 9  degrees.  I did this by clamping to the side of the  bench, checked the  angle and then used the hand seamer to bend to the 9  degree angle.   This will also be done on two of the front nose ribs.

When  working with the nose ribs, make sure that you trim a bit of the  front  corners so that when installed they do not make the dimple in the  skin.  I did this and when installing, noticed that I did not do them  enough.  Luckily I did catch this in time and was able to get them  trimmed farther without making permanent dents in the skin.

Now  that the piece are ready to be clecoed together, I made my cradles  to  hold the stabilizer skins vertical for assemble.  These definitively  do  help as a another set of hands.

The first part was to put  everything together and match drill all the  ribs to the front spar.   They are then disassembled and the nose ribs  get installed into the  skins first.  Then comes the spar, the HS-904 and  HS-1004 ribs.  Make  sure to follow the instructions, read a couple of  step ahead as these  go in in a certain order.

The rear spar was finally put in and  clecoed together.  The last step  was to match drill all the holes,  trying not to forget any. 

Starting tomorrow, I will take  everything apart, deburr, dimple and prep  for priming.  Boy, seems like  this thing goes together and then comes  apart then back together many,  many, many times.  Exhausting!!!

During some of the last steps, had a loss of memory and forgot to  keep  taking pictures.  So that I accomplished was finishing up taking  everything apart and prepped for and then primed.

Now that  everything is primed it was time to start the final assembly  with  riveting the two inboard ribs to the stringer webs and then rivet  the  HS-1014 and 1015 stringers together, then finish riveting those to  the  HS-1016 stringer web.

The directions then call ask to install  two snap bushings.  Did this but  added some E6000 adhesive to them so  they would not pop out during  construction.  Once they fall out, would  be very difficult to get back  in. 

The next step you will  definitely need a helper.  This is riveting the  front spar ribs to the  inner skins.  Got my friend Scott to help with  this process.  Without  help, I you would need some very long arms and a  lot of luck to get  these rivets in, bucked and looking good.

Then installed  HS-1004 ribs in riveted to the font spar web and then  slid  that part  of the assembly into the skins.  I then riveted the  front spar to the  front ribs and the skins to the front spar.

Then riveted up the  inner ribs to the stringers and then along those  stringers.  These are  not very fun rivets due to the lack of room.  Once  the stringers are  riveted, you finish up riveting up the HS1004  and  HS-904 ribs.   Getting sick of all these rivets already.  Need a break.

The  last step is to rivet the rear spar in place.  This was a pleasing  experience since I did not have to buck the rivets but could use the  pneumatic squeezer.

Wow, that was a lot more work than  expected.  Oh well, Yeah!!! I am  finished with this piece for now.

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