Build Log RV-10 #1

Blog for a Vans RV-10 Airplane Build

Pitch Servo Installation

Received the pitch servo and bracket so thought I would change course a bit and get that installed.  This was a very easy process. 

You start by simply attaching the servo to the bracket in the kit.  May want to prime this before.  Go the bolts in and I decided tie wire everything so that I know it will not come loose.

Take out the screws holding the pitch push rod and than reattach only this time put the bracket in first. Tighten per toque values.

Measure out the on the bellcrank where the the pushrod from the servo will be attached.  Installed the bolt and nut and that is about it.

For the wiring, I ordered a harness kit from Stein Air and will install once it gets here.

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Control System

This weekend I started working on tghe control system.  However, mad some mistakes and had to quit.

Started off by fabricating the elevator push tubes.  Got them cut to length the using the template, marked the holes to be drilled for riveting the threaded rod ends.  Holes were marked and drilled.  I did do both tubes at the same time so that I could get them coated on the inside with Akzo primer.  Made up a batch and poured inside getting them coated.  Set aside to dry and will finish riveting the ends in tomorrow.

Moved on to getting the jam nuts put on all rod end bearings. Then worked on the Aileron pushrods.  Installed the rod end bearings in each and all jams tightened to where the pieces are to the correct length.

I then started to work on the elevator idler arms and got them put together with clecos and then started to match drill.  For some reason I decided to not align the holes in the flange bearing and proceeded to drill completely new holes.  Once I realized this, time to stop and order a new flange bearing.  This probably was not a big deal but bothered me enough to set aside until new part arrives.

The pushrods then dried overnight so I installed and riveted the threade rod ends in and then got a coat of primer put on the oustide.  Again set aside for a day to let dry. 

While they were drying I moved on to the controls sticks.  Got the control stick base aligned up correctly and drilled to the control sticks.  This was a bit tricky but took my time and everything worked out good.

I then got the control column prepped and installed into the fuselage, bolted and torqued per specs.  Next was to get the control stick bases installed to the control column but there are a couple of bronze bushings that need to be opened up enough for a AN4 Bolt.  I did not have a reamer so I tried to use a 1/4 drill in a drill press to get them to the right size.  This ended in complete failure and ruined the bushings. 

Now that I have a couple of different pieces that I screwed up on and ruined. I am stopping with this section and will finish when I get new parts from Vans.

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Empennage Fairings

Started September 15, 2010 - 4 hours so far

Needed a bit of a break from the fuel tanks, am also waiting for another batch of proseal from Vans.  So I started to work on the empennage fairings.

Read through the directions and they seem pretty straight forward as far as getting them fitted.  I am going to use the West Systems to fiberglass them so there a smooth transition from the fairings to the empennage parts.  The only one that will be removable will be the bottom fairing on the rudder.  This is just in case I need to get at the light and/or wiring.

Got all the fairings trimmed, fitted and sanded.  Before I rivet them to the empennage, i will be using proseal to attach strips of aluminum to the insides of the fairings as a better support for the rivets.  I do not want them pulling through the fiberglass.

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Started September 28,  2009 - 78 Hours

Its Monday night and ready to  start constructing the elevators.  The  first thing to do is to cut the  elevator ribs apart and remove the  excess material shown in the  directions.  Did this with a band saw and  then sanded to the scribe  lines with a belt sander.

Then took  those parts and deburr all edges, and cleco together.  Once  clecoed,  match drilled the four common holes of the rib halves.  Make  sure that  these are now labeled so that they remain paired throughout  the  construction of the elevators.

Working on the rib assemblies  and making sure that the flanges fo the  tip ribs are bent at exactly 90  degrees and straight by fluting between  the pre-punched holes.  Make  sure that all blue vinyl is removed before  clecoing the pieces.

Final drilled all the holes on the web of the rib assemblies. Then do  the same match drilling to the flange holes. And finally match drill  three 3/16 holes at the front of the ribs with #12 drill.

The  next step is to separate the four E-1022 Shear Clips using a band  saw,  finishing up with belt sander and then deburring with scotch bright  wheel.

Enough for tonight, going in to enjoy a beer and some  TV.

Back to the grind.  Started tonight on the top and bottom skins, you  need to be bent.  You make a bend in each aft inner portion the closes  the section next to the elevator trim.  Not hard to do, just take your  time to make sure that you get the bend in the right spot.

Next was too cleco and match drill the hinge reinforcement plates.  Then  remove and set aside for later.  make sure you mark the plates so you  know where they go during final assembly.

This is where you  start seeing it coming together by clecoing the E-1008  Ribs to the  front spar and bottom skin.  Make not to the direction of  the front  spar, there are tabs on one and and once you start match  drilling, they  become designated right and left, just as the skins in  the previous  step. Then cleco in the rear spar and shear clips to the  ribs and the  bottom skin.

Cleco in place the trim access reinforcement plate  and final drill all  the common holes using a #40 drill. Then match  drill the elevator gusset  to each of the inner rib and rear spar.

Attach the tip rib assembly to shear clip, front and rear spar and the  bottom skin.  Final drill the holes per directions.

Now to  install the top skins and cleco in place. Make sure you have the  top  skin bend over the the bottom skin bend.

Cleco in place and  final drill the elevator horns to the front spar with  a #30 drill.

The next step is to final drill the skins to the spars and ribs.  When  doing this, make sure that you start in the middle of each spar and  work  your way to the root and tip, inserting a cleco in every hole.

Take the cover plates and attach the trim cable anchor brackets.   there  are no holes so you must measure, clamp and drill each bracket.

Dimple the holes in the reinforcement plates to accept flush  rivets for  the nut plates.

Now comes the really fun part  (being sarcastic), completely disassemble  and deburr, deburr, deburr,  deburr, then deburr a bit more, then just  when you think you are done  deburr some more.  Now to the second most  fun part, dimple till it  hurts.  Make sure that you follow the  instructions closely as there  some parts that need to be dimpled on the  spars and ribs.

Then  prep for and prime.

Well, today is not been a good one. I finished prepping for primer  and  noticed that I made a big mistake.  Not the first and certainly not  the  last, but really makes you frustrated that you have to stop a  process  and wait for new parts from Vans.

What I did is not  look at the directions very closely as I mentioned you  should do in the  last section. In the rear spar you need to countersink  the first inner  29 holes on the top ONLY.  Well, I  was  having so much fun doing this, I just could not stop myself and  continued to counter sink all the hole, on both sides.  Since I was  already out of control countersinking, I just had to keep going and do  the front spar as well.  What and idiot i am.

So I decided to  get at least alumiprep, alodine, and Akzo prime the rest  of the parts  and then place an order for the new spars.  Not to  mention, both left  and right pieces.  This is another example of why you  need to read the  directions completely, slowly and a few steps forward  before continuing  with any new step.

The only thin I could get done is to start  riveting together the tip  assemblies and install the reinforcement  plates along with the  nutplates..  Now that they are done, I decided to  move onto working on  the tail cone section until my new parts come.

Be back later with this section.

I received the new spars this week and drill out all holes according  to  the instructions.  I started to put together with clecos so all  parts  could be match drilled.  Did not work so well since everything  was  already dimpled.  So did what I could and for the holes in the  flange of  the spars that attach to the skins.  Just drilled to a #40  hole.

The two spars then got alodine and primer.

It  was time to finally get this thing riveted together.  Got the doubler  plates and horns riveted in place and it was now time to start  attaching the skins to the rear spar.

Everything was going  really good. It was then I started to install  rivets to the front spar  and get everything closed up and noticed as I  worked my way out from  the middles, the skins began to warp.

Well folks, this is a  prime example of why you need to make sure that  you follow instructions  very closely and understand every single move  you make.  Also, I was  questioning why it was needed to cleco every hole  when you match drill  the skins starting in the middle.  Guess I found  out the hard way.

So now I have to mostly done elevators that are a pile of screwed up  aluminum.  So, now they sit on the floor in the corner of my garage as a  reminder of one major screw up.  Anybody want to buy them? Yeah Right!

So I got the pleasure this morning of ordering all new parts so I  can  completely start over on the elevators.  Nothing another 70 or so  hours  and $450 bucks wont take care of.  Ugh! May take me a while to  stop  cussing for this one.

Oh well, what do you do.  Major  learning lesson accomplished the hard  way.  So, guess I will move back  to the tail cone to see what kind of  mistakes I can make there.  Be  back later with this section.

Somewhat happy to say I am back  to this elevator thing again.  At least I  will know this time about all  the mistakes that can be made and will  definitely be much more  cautious.

So now that the tailcone is assembled and the  horizontal stabilizer and  rudder are basically attached, I am back to  the elevators.

Since I took pictures and made notes during the  initial assembly, I am  just going to start off where I left off.

So far everything is going together much better and faster this time  around.  Got all the ribs and rear spar riveted together.  This was a  fairly easy and quick process as long as you have the right tools, like  the long bucking bar from Avery.

Worked on getting the skins  attached to the rear spar and riveted the  upper and lower ribs  together.

Will now start to rivet the front spar to the skins  and ribs.

Started the riveting of the front spar, this went pretty quick.  Got  the  aft flange of the E=905 root rib and also riveted the elevator  gusset.

Next step was to attach the tip rib assembly to the  elevator.  Fairly  straight forward, just cleco and rivet.

Moving on the to to cuttin gout the foam ribs for the trailing edge of  the elevator, since you need to do the same step for the elevator trim  tabs, i did them all at once.  During the painting of the elevator  skins, I did mask off the spots where these ribs get glued so I went  ahead and glued them with a coat of tank sealant mix.

Also  while gluing the ribs to the skins, you also apply tank sealant to  the  trailing edge pieces and then cleco and clamp to a bench to dry for a  couple of days.

Its been a few days now so it is time to clean  out all the extra sealant  from the rivet holes in the trailing edge and  then rivet together.

Finish riveting the shear clops with  blind rivets and then move on to  rolling the leading edge with a pvc  pipe and rivet together with CS4-4  pull rivets.  Once completed install  the counterweights into each  elevator tip.  This step has you cut and  shape the lead pieces a bit but  soft enough to do with a band saw.

Now on to the Elevator trim tabs.  To tell you the truth, I hated this  step the worse.  Not that it was hard, I think that since I was having  so many problems with the elevators that I am just a bit ticked off  about them. With that said, the directions explain everything so I am  just going to be done with this section. 

To add to my  problems, I must have accidentally deleted or misplaced  some of the  photos, so you won't get to see any of those either, this is  all I got.

I am moving on, thank god!!!!!!!!

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