Started March 21, 2010 Build Time 13 Hours
This section of constructing the rear spar was not to bad.
Starting off this section requires you to locate the four W-1013 Aileron Hinge Brackets, the on two of them remove the stop tab. Then cleco aileron bracket spacer and the two aileron hinge sides together. Final Drill all the common #30 holes and then countersink the the AFT holes on the OUTBOARD face of the W1-1013C hinge bracket. Repeat this process for the right inboard aileron bracket assembly.
You then make another bracket just about the same as above but this times using the hinge brackets with the removed stop tab. Again countersink the AFT holes on but this time on the INBOARD face of the W-1013C hinge bracket. Then repeat process to make another for other wing.
Disassembled all the part, duburred all holes and edges, alodined and then primed all the parts.
Before you cleco these parts back together, make sure that you install the bearing. I actually started to install a couple of rivets before I figured out that the bearing was not in the brackets. Stupid mistake but glad I caught it before I got much further.
The next step is to gather the W-1007D Rear Spar Double Pate and draw a line the is 5/16" from the edge. If you are doing both wings at the same time as I, make sure that when you draw the line on the doubler for other wing, that you start on the othe edge.
Then grab the W-1007E Rear Spar Double Plates and nest them underneath the upper flange of the rear spar. When I lined the edges up to the spar, I noticed that the double plate was cut a bit crooked so I ran it across the belt sander to true it up and match the rear spar perfectly. One nested to the spar, match drill all holes to #30 and then match drill #40 all the common holes in the upper flange of the rear spar.
Not take the doublers that you drew the lines on and nest them underneath the upper flange like was done in the last step but this time using the lines you to line up with the outboard-most row of attach holes. Once completed match drill all holes to #30 on the web and #40 on the common upper flange.
On these to inner doubler plates the instructions want you to make a hole to match the one that is in the rear spar. I did not like how they did, thought it would be easier to just trace the cutout while it was clecoed together then cut out when taken apart for deburr and primer. This was a much easier process in my opinion.
Next is to cleco the W-1007B Rear Spar Reinforcement Fork, the W-1007C Rear Spar Doubler Plate to the rear spar, then cleco the other doublers and hinge brackets also to the rear spar. Once completed match drill #30 the holes common between the rear spar parts and all three flap hinge ribs, all the common attach holes per the figure in the instructions. Then final drill #40 the common holes between the lower rear spar web flange and the ribs lower aft tab.
Make sure you read the direction closely on this step with is countersinking the W1007C doubler plate. The only holes that get counter sunk on this double are the bottom 6 holes. Then also countersink the holes in the upper flange of the rear spar web that correspond to the other double plates.
Disassemble, deburr all holes and edges of all parts.
Before priming, final drill #40 and dimple the first 26 most inboard holes in the flange of the rear spar only. These are the holes that are just above the rear spare reinforcement fork. The dimple the holes in the lower ribs aft tab along with the holes that correspond to the lower rear spar flange.
Once completed prep all parts and prime.
Last step is to reassemble all the parts once dried. One thing to keep in mind is if you decide to rivet the reinforcement fork and doubler plates to the rear spar before clecoing to the ribs, make sure that you mark the holes that corresond to the ribs so that you do not install a rivet in one of those places, very easy to do especially on the reinforcent fork. In addition to this, make sure that you study the instructions carefully because not all holes get rivets here. The second to the last row of holes do not get riveted until you attach teh aileron and flap gap fairings that come in a later section.
Rear spar is competed and now on to the top wing skins.