Started November 8, 2010
All pieces for the flaps have been gathered and all the blue film taken off. Did not get much done tonight.
First thing to start off with today is to make the cradles fo hold the flap upright during construction. Used one of the nose ribs as a template onto a piece of ply wood and cut.
The first part of constructing the flaps is to mark the joggled edge of the hinge brackets as described in the plans and drill to a #40. This went pretty quick, made a simple template and then transferred to the hinge brackets. Once completed I moved onto the outboard rod end rib subassembly. Clecoed the pieces together and final drilled to #30. The same process is done for the inboard rod end subassembly. Remember to only drill and countersink the outboard rod end rib for the nutplate. Both inboard and outboard are the same. Almost did both myself.
Next was to cleco and drill TWO left and TWO right hinge pair rib subassemblies. Final drill all 1/8 holes to #30.
The spacers needed for the center hinge assembly came a bit bowed due to the stamping of the parts. Required just a bit of flattening. It is an option at this point to drill lightning holes in these spacers. The only benefit I can see this is the reduction of weight. I chose to leave as is=, heck it is probably stronger anyway.
The spacers are then sandwiched between two hinge brackets and the FL-1004 nose ribs. It is also required to insert a bolt, washers and nut to keep the spacing of the center hinge while match drilling.
Next is to trim away the small tab on the Fl-1005 main ribs. The tab that gets cut off has no prepunched hole. Used a cutoff wheel on a dremel and that worked great. Once trimmed I clecoed into place on the spar along with the hinge assemblies, then finally drilled them to the spar with a #30drill.
Now that all the ribs and hinges are match drilled, I attached the bottom and top skins along with the two nose skins with clecoes. Basic step and everything went together very smoothly. Match drilled all the holes according to the plans.
For each of the hinge brackets, I inserted the bolt, washers and nut to hold and space everything accordingly and then match drill the holes in the joggled portion of the hinge brackets.
Everything is now all match drilled and ready for disassembly. As I took each part off, I marked with letters and numbers and also wrote them down on the full picture in the plans to make sure that the pieces go back into their original position during final assembly. I did construction of both flaps at the same time but now for the remainder, I am taking each one apart seperately and finishing one of them before disassembly of the other. Again to make things a bit less confusion when doing final assembly.
All parts have been deburred and dimpled. All prep work and priming is now done. On to final assembly
Since all parts were marked by letters and number according to their original postition, things went very well matching up the pieces and getting them Clecoed together. I then riveted all the hinge bracket subassemblies together wih the rivets called out in the directions. Now that those are riveted, it is now time to attach them to the spar along with the ribs.
Everthing is riveted to the spar so I am moving on to clecoing the skins, nose skins, nose ribs and main ribs together. Started with the top skin and riveted to the spar, then moved onto the ribs. Make sure that you do not do the last two aft rivets. For some reason these are to be backriveted. Probably due to them bending over. Oh well, who cares, easy to do and takes hardly any time.
Now that the top skin is attached, on to the bottom. This is a bit more tricky because you need to install solid rivets where the bottom skin meets the nose skin and spar. Can be done wih a small tungsten bucking bar pretty easy as long as you take your time. However, you must be careful not to ding the top skin with the bucking bar. Done!
There is no way to get to the back side of the nose ribs so it is called out to drill to a #33 and then install blind rivets. Some of the holes were a bit of a bugger so I did one at a time while the others were being held by clecos. I did the bottom portion then moved on to the top ones.
At this time I countersunk the aft trailing edge pieces since I failed to do it when I deburred and dimpled everything. Once completed moved onto applying tank sealand to the top and bottom skins were the trailing edges meet up with the skins. Then put a cleco in every hole of the trailing edge and then clamped to the work table to keep it straight while the sealant cures. Will be back in a few days, by then the the flap should be ready for final riveting.