Build Log RV-10 #1

Blog for a Vans RV-10 Airplane Build

Painting the Wings

This last weekend I decided to tackle one of the wings.  Was not sure how it would go so I decided not to try and get both wings done at the same time. 

When applying the Sherwin Williams Aerospace Acry Glo you have certain time frames between coats and colors.  That is what concerned me the most.  

One you get apply the corrosion protection epoxy/primer you have 72 hours to get the base coat of paint sprayed.  Then once the base coat is applied, you have 24 hours to do the striping, which consists of three different colors for my scheme, and then apply the clear coat.  This cuts it pretty close so I used an accelerator to speed up the tape time on the 3 metallic color that are applied.

Got one of the wings done and think it is turning out pretty good.  Not absolutely perfect but for an amateur, cannot complain. 

Check out the pics below and you can see the progress in the full gallery.   ( More pics will be coming as I get more done.)


Wing Attachment - For Fit

The forecast was for a beautiful weekend so got some friends to come over and help put the wings on for the first time.  We started on Friday evening and by end of day Saturday, the wings were removed and put back into the shop.  Was a great site seeing the wings on.  A major milestone has been accomplished.

Taking off the wings was a hard thing to do, mentally.  Oh well, they have been on, fit was exceptional and all pieces have been fit and formed per the instructions.

And now that they have been removed, I can finish the last steps of getting the pieces riveted and primed for when final assembly comes.

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Wingtip Installation

 Decided to get the wings wrapped up as much as possible so they can be stored away until it is time to do prep and paint work.  Was not really looking to do fiberglass work. Mostly because I have not had any experience with this type of work, and because it is very messy.  Oh well, had to start sometime.

Started by trimming the edge of the wingtips lip that attaches to the wing skin to 1/2 inch.  Also trimmed the after portions, the top is trimmed in enough so that there is a small gap between the tip and the aileron an on the bottom the same plus a bit for the aileron hinge.  Used a cutoff wheel to make all the cuts and it worked great.  Finished the edges with a hand block sander.

I then installed the wingtips to the end of the wing and match drilled the attach holes, starting in the front going from top to bottom and working back, installing clecos in each hole as I progressed.  Once screw holes were match drill, I match drilled the holes for rivets to attach the nutplates.  The holes were the countersunk for heads of the rivets.  Installed all the nutplates.

Once the nutplates were attached, I used a countersink with the end cut off. As long as you go slow and are carefull, this seems to work quite well.  Also dimpled the wing skins to accept a #6 screw.

When I first attached the wingtip with clecos, everything worked and looked perfect.  Then when I went to re-attach with screws, I ended up with a bulge issue towards the aft end. Can see pictures here.  After working the holes, redimpling, cutting the rear of the tip apart (needed to be done anyway as the tip was about 3/4" to long) and installed the tip rib, glassed the end back together, it all worked out pretty good.  The bulge is now gone.  I did the same installation process with the other tip and had no issues.  Am wondering if I had a bad constructed wing tip.  Took a bit of work and time but happy with how it fits now.

Match drilled the tip for the rib and attached.  Filled in the gap between with West Systems and fill so that it is flush with the end of the wingtip.

Now that the tips are screwed on and fit good, there is a small gap where the lip of the wingtip attaches to the wing.  This creates no problem, but do not like the cosmetic look.  So I decided to tape off the end of the wing and fill this gap in using West Systems resin mixed with some filler.  Let this dry  overnight and sanded to match the height of the skin.  Now the tip is a perfect match to the skin.  Looks much better and worth the extra time.

Next was to install the wingtip lenses.  I purchased a different set of lenses from Vans Aircraft Tires that are precut and the ones I received fit right out of the box with very little fitting.  Once fit and nutplates installed for attaching, I did the same method to fill the gap between the wingtip lip and the lens as I did on the wingtip and skin edges.  This worked very well, and again made the lenses look like a perfect match.

I then measured and drilled the holes for the Nav Strobe lights.  I chose to use the Pulsar EXP from AeroLED.  They are a tight fit as they need to be completed back as far as possible or they will hit the lens in the front.  Got the mounts installed but they will have to be removed and once the tips are painted will be reinstalled for good.  Will not be putting the landing lights in the tips as I chose to utilize the Duckworks mounts for the leading edges of the wing.

The wingtips are now done until prep and paint so will be installed temporarily to the wings and stored until needed later.

Click on images for a view of full gallery. 

Landing Lights - Duckworks and AeroLED

Due to many other builders having issues with the factory placement of the landing lights in the end of the wingtips, I chose to forgo the factory option and utilize a kit made by Duckworks Aviation.

This kit moves the landing lights from the wingtips and puts them just inboard of the wing end into the leading edge.  Installing is a straight forward process but is a bit nerve racking cutting a hole in the front of wing leading edge.  There are many kits from Duckworks that fit different lighting options.  I chose the blank mount so I could cut and do my own mounting of the landing lights. The landing lights I will be installing are the Sunlite from AeroLED.  Besides the bit of cutting I will have to do for the light mounting, the kit is very complete and nothing else is needed to complete.

Starting out is to cut the hole in the leading edge using a supplied template.  I cutout the template and taped to the leading edge, marked and cut with a dremel and cutoff wheel.  Finished off the edges with a file and sanding wheel on the dremel.

Next is to mark holes that need to be drilled for nutplates in two of the most outboard wing ribs.  These nutplates will be used to hold the landing light mounts that will go between the two outer ribs.  Got these drilled and the nutplates were riveted in place.

The landing light mount needs to be cut and extended using some aluminum angle.  This is so that you can get a perfect fit of the mount between the wing ribs.  Very easy to do, just takes a bit of time to get the width perfect. Once I got the fit right, the mount was riveted together.  I then measured for the cutout for the landing light and mount and got everything cut and mounted.

I then moved onto getting the pieces that hold the leading edge lenses in place match drilled to the skin.  There is one for the top and one for the bottom.  The top one is riveted into place and the bottom one will have screws that hold the lens in place.

With the lense holders in place, I cut the lenses for the opening per the instructions.  Tried to cut with a band saw and got the first one right to the end and it snapped.  Had to order a new lens.  Chose to use a dremel and cutoff wheel after that and it worked great.  The lenses need to be trimmed just perfect to fit in the top and bottom holders or there will be a gap between the leading edge and the lens.  This takes a lot of trial and error but take your time and it will all work out.

The final part is to install the landing light mounts between the wing ribs with screws. Then to install the lenses. This is a bit tricky because you need to get the lens in the top mount, the using tape placed on the outside of the lens, pull it forward and then try to get the bottom mount in place and screws started.  This was a real pain but eventually got them in and done.

Hooked the lights up to a battery to see how they worked and if the amount of light would be sufficient.  I think they will be just fine.

Click on images for view of full gallery.

Bottom Wing Skins

This part was left quite a while back as I was not sure exactly what I was going to install for lights, antenna, pitot, AOA, Stall Warning, Autopilot servos, etc.  So, I think I got what everything so far that I want.  Even if I do not, I do have some options to get more wiring in there if needed.

I clecoed the bottom wings skins on and match drilled all the holes common to the ribs, main spar and rear spar.  The skins were then removed and deburred, dimpled and primed.  Also, the two overlapping skins were sanded down where they overlap to make a more appealing seam.  The wing ribs and j-stiffeners were then deburred and dimpled.

The j-stiffeners were put in place and then inboard skins were clecoed to the rear spar and wing ribs down to the j-stiffeners.  Starting in the middle of the skin, I installed the rivets moving to each side until the spar was completed.  Working down a couple of rivets at a time, I completed the riveting to the wing ribs, then did across the j-stiffener.  Once that was done, I finished the rest of the bottom skin off in the same way, leaving the double row of rivets that the outboard skin overlapps.

Then clecoed the outboard skin to the rear spar and starting at the designated point, I did the same routing as the inboard skin but this time leaving the 3 outboard ribs undone until last. Then worked one rivet at a time towards the outboard edge until the skin was completely finished.

I left the most inboard rib nutplates until last, these were then done and the wing bottom skins are finished. 

If you have anyone that could help with these skins, I think it would be very helpful.  I did all the rivets myself except for about 10 in each wing that my wife Stacey helped with.  Left lots of markes and cuts on the arms trying to reach into the ribs through lightning holes and under the skin.  Oh well, another section done.

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Aileron Actuation

Started October 1, 2010 18 hours

The next step in the construction process is to get the bottom wing skins on.  After looking at others construction process and reading the the manual, it seemed that it would be a better choice to jump forward to the aileron actuation part first.  Seems as though it would be much easier to get these at least installed and set while you can still get into the wing.

 I am going to do the regular install of the actuation system and have decided to add aileron trim, so will be doing that install also before closing up the bottom of the wings.

Not much to say here.  The directions and pics are pretty straight foward.  The only thing to watch is to make sure that you put the torque tube in the correct way.  The small difference when drilling torque tube subassemblies make a difference.  If they are in the wrong way they contact the inner wing rib and does not allow enough throw.

I did finish up the ailerons and then came back to this step and attached the pushrods to the bellcrank and the aileron bracket.

This step is now finished.

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Gap Fairings

Started September 28, 2010 4 hours to complete

Now that the fuel tanks are done and mounted, it is time to get the aileron and flap gap fairings installed.

Pretty straight forward process and should go quickly.  Started the process by clecoing the fairings to the trailing edge of the wing and match drilling all holes to the upper wing skins and the trailing edge spar.

Next was to deburr all the holes in the fairings, skings and spar.  When dimpling, you only do the skin and the top edge of the fairings.  The holes that mount to the rear spar are done with 427 rivets and no need to dimple or countersink.  However, there is an exception, the first 6 holes from the wing root are countersunk for 426 rivets, but these are the only ones done when mounting to the spar.

Everything is deburred, dimpled, prepped and primed so it is ready for final installation. 

Again started with securing with clecos to skin and rear spar.  Started in the middle of each fairing starting with the skin.  The skin rivets are in and on to the spar rivets.

The gap fairings are completed.  Very easy and quick section.

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Fuel Tanks

Started July 1st, 2010  115 Hours

Well, today is the start of the dredded fuel tanks.  After reading many other builders logs it seems that this is no easy or fun process and has been making me nervous to even start.  But I guess the only way to get them done is to dig right in and get going.

The first parts of the directions are not so bad as it is just putting everything together with clecos and match drilling all the holes.  As many other builders have said - the directions get a bit harder for every section that you move on to.  This meaning that they leave out some of the steps that should be a given now.  For example size of holes, fluting, what should be dimpled and countersunk and what needs to be done to each part or hole before final assembly.  Not bad just need to understand this so that you do not forget.

To begin I took all the parts that were marked for the fuel tanks and prepared them.  This included separating some of the z-brackets, tank stiffeners and vent line clips.  Got all these separated, deburred and the ones that needed it, primed.

Then on to fabricating the full length tank stiffeners that go on the top top side of the tanks.  Clecoed them and the small stiffener plated to the bottom skin.  Make sure that you read the direction on the inner most bottom tank stiffener as they need to be trimmed and the inner most hole redrilled.  Also, not these on the stiffeners so you do not put them in the wrong place during re-assembly.

Clecoed all the tank ribs in place for both tanks.  Match drilled all the holes of the ribs to the skin then finished drilling all the holes in the top stiffener. Then cleco the tank attach bracket to the tanks and ribs.

The directions do not mention what to do with the holes in the tank attach bracket but drill to final size.  After looking at other builder logs and the fact that the thickness of this piece is quite thick, it is about impossible to dimple.  So I went ahead and counter sunk the holes that match the skin and also the ones that go to the upper and lower shim pieces.

I did not choose to use the fuel caps that came with the kit but chose to upgrade to the lockable ones.  After receiving them in the mail, I was pleased that I made this choice.  They are much better quality and the do not need to be bent to match the skin curve.

The z-brackets are now primed and dry so I went ahead and attached the nut plates per instructions.  Then clecoed them along with the rear tank baffle to all the skins and ribs. Final drilled all the holes per instructions.

Drilled out the screw holes in the fuel tank skins to a #19. 

The next step takes a bit longer and make sure that you fully read the instructions as you do not countersink every hole that attached the skin to tank baffle.  They tell you to leave a few of them  to maintain proper alignment.

Before dis-assembly of the tank, I went through and labeled all the parts  so that it will go back together in the exact same position it was match drilled for.

I have to leave this process for a bit because I am not going to use the float fuel system that are in the instructions.  Instead I am going to come up with capacitive fuel guage senders.  Vans does not offer a kit for the RV10 at this time so I am going to make one.  This will be documented in another section called Capacitive Fuel System.

I got all the parts fabricated for the capacitive fuel system done so I can now move on to finishing the tank construction.

All the parts for the tanks have been deburred, dimpled and countersunk per the instructions.  The instructions are now requiring you to think about the process more as they do not specifically tell you to do steps that you should already be aware of doing.  For example, deburr every hole, not telling you what exact holes to dimple, etc.

Started final assembly on the tanks by mixing up some of this great pro seal stuff.  This is a process that I have been dreading from the very start.  Instead of applying the pro seal with a stick, I picked up some syringes from our pharmacy that have quite a big opening to make it easy to suck up the pro seal, and just about the right size to lay out a nice layer.  Worked great for me, although never tried any other method, so could be totally wrong.

Got all the tank stiffeners gooped up and clecoed onto the skins.  Tried at first to buck the rivets normally, but then has this great thought to try and back rivet.  Much better idea, not sure why I was lacking this judgement earlier.  Made a huge mess trying to do it the other way.

All tank stiffeners are done and on to the ribs.  I made up two ounces of proseal at a time which covered two ribs, top and bottom.  This worked out pretty well as by the time I was done riveting the second rib, the proseal was already starting to set up.  Bad part is that after each set of two ribs, everything must be cleaned before moving on to the next two.  The clecoes were the worst to clean.  Finally started to soak them in MEK over night and wiped off the next day before doing any more ribs.

Kept moving on with assembly in the order that the directions tell you.  Besides dealing with this very messy proseal stuff, it actually was going pretty good.  The biggest thing that bothered me the most was the amount of time it was taking me.  Seemed like I was never going to get to the end.

Well, finally getting close.  Got everything together except for the rear baffles.  I decide to waste some time to check for major leaks by filling each tank with water.  It also was to help clean out all the sanding mess I made from trying to get rid of all the proseal I ended up with all over the inside of the skins.  Glad I did this as I ended up with 1 rivet in each tank that had a very slight leak.  Not sure where it was coming from but decided to remove and replace these two rivets.  Now that I have become nervous that I have  a couple of leaks I decided to go around every seam with proseal.  This means every rib inside and out, top and bottom, along with all the tank stiffeners and the j stiffener.  Probably not needed but I do not want to have to cut into the rear baffle to fix leaks later.  I wanted to feel 100% that there was not going to be any leaks.

Before installing the rear baffles, I had to finish up the install on the capacitive fuel system.  That is now done.

Lastly, finished up the proseal and rivets for the rear baffles.  Once everything was dry, I sanded off all the excess proseal I had on the outside of the tanks and sprayed on a final coat of primer.

I am going to let the tanks sit for a couple of weeks before I do a pressure test. Have heard a couple of stories of builders that tried to do it to soon and the pressure pushed out the proseal and ended up with quite a few leaks.

Be back in a few weeks to finish up this section.

Well, with a lot of stress, I decided to pressure test the fuel tanks tonight.  I am pleased to say with much relief that neither tank leaked.  Yipeeeeee!!!!

The only thing left to do now is hang the tanks on the wings.  Started to do just this tonight and notice that I need to shave a bit off of the skin of the outer side.  This is due to the skin overlapping the leading edge.  Used a beld sander on low and only needed to take about 1/32 off.  Pretty easy.

I am leaving the balloons on the tanks to see how long they stay pressurized.

But for now, the tanks are on the wings so I am calling them complete.  On to the next section.

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AOA Installation

Started June 12 Installation time 2 Hours

I am installing the Advanced Flight Systems Angle of Attach (AOA) system instead of the standard stall warning vane system.

First step is to fin the the best locations for the ports.  Luckily enough AFS has a chart that shows the location for the ports. 

Found the correct measurements from the AFS site and marked them on top and bottom of the leading edge skins.  Once done I drill the hole for the ports. Using the ports for a guide I marked and drilled the holes for the screws that hold them to the skins.  Once done deburred and dimpled for the screws.

Before installing I made sure that the barb fittins for the air water seperator were installed and torqued to specs.

When installing the ports it requires some sealant be used between the ports and the skins.   I used E-6000 and it seemed sufficient.  Then screwed them to the skins.  Make sure when installing the top port that the barbs are in the right direction and not pointing towards the J-stiffener as this does not allow enough room to get the tubing on the barbs.

Once installed I took a piece aluminim rod and fit into the top port.  This was long enough to reach when in the port to the bottom leading edge skin.  Marked this location and drilled a small hole.  This hole is used to drain water from the top port using the supplied drain extension rod.

Last step was to attach the tubing and then run it through the conduit to the inboard ends of the wings.


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Outboard Leading Edge

Started May 18, 2010 Build Time 19 Hours

Started the day off gathering all the parts needed for the leading edges of the wings.  Read throught the directions and they seem pretty straight forward for this part.

Gathered all the leading edge ribs.  Fluted, Straightened and adjusted all the flanges to make sure everything was straight.  Then deburred everything with the scotchbrite wheel.

Fabricated the  leading edge J-stiffeners for both leading edges.  Got the center line marked used to center the stiffener in the skin holes when drilling.

The next step involved modifying some if the ribs so that they fit around the wing spar bars and rivet heads on hte main spar assembly.  Two ribs per side must be modified, each one has a different cut for top and bottom.  Made me a bit nervous at first but after getting into it, not bad at all, just follow the directions and cut graph.

Cut out the leading edge vee blocks that will be used to hold the the leading edges in the cradle.  Since I am doing both leading edges at the same time I made two cradles.

Cut the splice strips from the fuel tank skins with a dremel cut off tool.  Deburred the edges on these and the leading edge skins. Then removed the blue protective vinyl from the insides of the skins.

Put the skins in the cradles and started clecoing the ribs to the skins.  This was a bit frustrating getting the holes to line up but found that starting at the leading edge and working aft doing both sides at the same time worked the best for me.  After a couple of the ribs were put in I got the J-stiffener put in and drilled. 

Ribs and stiffener are in so off to some final drilling of the holes.  Stared with finishing the stiffener then to the ribs.  I ended up putting clecos in every hole to make sure everything stayed lined up.  The splice strip was also attached to the inboard skin edge and nut plates were final drilled to the splice strip.

Now that everything is match drilled just need to enlarge the screw holes on the splice strip and then disassemble both leading edges to debur all the holes, counter sink, dimple, alodine and prime all the parts so final assembly can be done. Have I mentioned I hate deburring yet????

Final assembly starts with  riveting the nutplats to the spice strip.

The next step involves installing the stall warning device.  I have chosen not to use the included stall warning system and chose to go with the AOA system from Advanced Flight Systems.  However I will not be needing the AOA display since I will be integrating it into the AFS EFIS system. 

You can check out the log on the AOA installation and pics here.

Reassambled the leading edges as I did in the beginning and started to rivet beginning with the two most aft holes in the leading adge ribs and then instead of starting at the leading edge as I did when clecoing.  The direction mention to start at the aft edge and move progressively towards the leading edge.  This was not to bad at all except for the last 4 rivets back from the leading edge for each rib.  This required some bucking help. Somehow talked my lovely wife into helping.  What a trooper.

Enlarged the tie-down holes for the tie-down rings on the bottom of the leading edge.  Used the unibit for this and worked great.

Just about ready to attach the leading edges to the wing spar but first need to run a ddrill through each of the aft holes on the leading edge with a #40 bit.  Then clecoed the leading edge to the wing spar.  Final drilled the holes in the main spar to the aft flange of the leading edge ribs.

Now that the final drill it is off to more riveting.  Just followed the riveting per instructions and it moved right along till I need to rivet the leading edge skins to the main spar.  Again got my wife to do some bucking.  She must really love me!!!

Leading edges are done and attached.

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Top Wing Skins

Started  April 5, 2010 Build Time 46  Hours

Took the time last night to read through  this section to see if there are any catches that seem to come with  almost every other step.  The only thing that I questioned a bit was the  sanding of where the two skins overlap but once I was there, not bad.   Once these things get on there should look like there is some good  progress happening.

To start was to locate the J-Stiffeners  that were fabricated in the first step of the wing construction.  Found  them and put them in place.  Then grabbed the wing walk doublers and  layed them in the correct location, took a few minutes to figure this  out.  Must be having a slow brain day.  Once in place placed the W-1002  top wing skin over them and clecoed into place along with the  J-Stiffeners.

This uses a lot of cleco's as I put them in  every third hole.  Good thing for the air cleco tool or my hands would  be shot by now.  Finally got both wings completely clecoed down and  ready to start final drilling all the holes.  You need to final drill  all the holes common the top wing skins and the spars, J-stiffeners,  wing walk doublers, ribs and the nut plates.  In other words, every damn  hole but the aft row that are used for ailerons and flaps.

The next step is the only thing that I  found was really a gotcha for other builders and probably would have  done the same thing if I had not looked at other builder sites.  This  pertains to the aft most  screw hole that needs to be dimpled for a #8  flush head screw.  The other one that may get a few and almost did me  was when you countersink the skins over the wing walk doublers, make  sure you do not countersink the holes that are common to the  J-stiffeners as the doublers do not go over them.  Anyway, got all the  correct holes countersunk and dimpled per the instructions with no  issues.  yeah!

Now that everything is final drilled, time  to disassemble so the parts can be deburred, dimpled, and primed to be  ready for final riveting.  Wow, do I love this step, it certainly has to  be by favorite. Who would not love all this deburring. (total sarcasm)

Primer has been drying now for a couple of  days and ready to get them clecoed back onto the ribs so that we can  start the riveting process.  Trying to figure out how I am going to do  this by myself, maybe backriveting.  Nope, seems that I need to find me a  buddy to help.  Of course my always will friend Scott decided he was up  for the task.  Hope he comes back after this, there are a lot of rivets  in each wing.

Well, Friday was here and Scott and I  started the daunting task of putting in the skin rivets.  Started out  pretty slow but eventually found a steady rythm and kept on bucking.   Intially thought this was going to go a bit faster but after almost 4  hours, we only had one of the wings done.  Time to quite as we are both  wore out.  Will finish next Friday afternoon I hope.  In the meantime I  am going to start on the leading edge pieces while I wait for help  again.

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Rear Wing Spar

Started March 21, 2010 Build Time 13  Hours

This section of constructing the rear spar was not to bad.

Starting off this section requires you to locate the four W-1013  Aileron Hinge Brackets, the on two of them remove the stop tab. Then  cleco aileron bracket spacer and the two aileron hinge sides together.   Final Drill all the common #30 holes and then countersink the the AFT  holes on the OUTBOARD face of the W1-1013C hinge bracket.  Repeat this  process for the right inboard aileron bracket assembly.

You then make another bracket just about the same as above but this  times using the hinge brackets with the removed stop tab. Again  countersink the AFT holes on but this time on the INBOARD face of the  W-1013C hinge bracket.  Then repeat process to make another for other  wing.

Disassembled all the part, duburred all holes and edges, alodined and  then primed all the parts.

Before you cleco these parts back together, make sure that you  install the bearing.  I actually started to install a couple of rivets  before I figured out that the bearing was not in the brackets.  Stupid  mistake but glad I caught it before I got much further.

The next step is to gather the W-1007D Rear Spar Double Pate and draw  a line the is 5/16" from the edge.  If you are doing both wings at the  same time as I, make sure that when you draw the line on the doubler for  other wing, that you start on the othe edge.

Then grab the W-1007E Rear Spar Double Plates and nest them  underneath the upper flange of the rear spar.  When I lined the edges up  to the spar, I noticed that the double plate was cut a bit crooked so I  ran it across the belt sander to true it up and match the rear spar  perfectly.  One nested to the spar, match drill all holes to #30 and  then match drill #40 all the common holes in the upper flange of the  rear spar.

Not take the doublers that you drew the lines on and nest them  underneath the upper flange like was done in the last step but this time  using the lines you to line up with the outboard-most row of attach  holes.  Once completed match drill all holes to #30 on the web and #40  on the common upper flange.

On these to inner doubler plates the instructions want you to make a  hole to match the one that is in the rear spar.  I did not like how they  did, thought it would be easier to just trace the cutout while it was  clecoed together then cut out when taken apart for deburr and primer.   This was a much easier process in my opinion.

Next is to cleco the W-1007B Rear Spar Reinforcement Fork, the  W-1007C Rear Spar Doubler Plate to the rear spar, then cleco the other  doublers and hinge brackets also to the rear spar.  Once completed match  drill #30 the holes common between the rear spar parts and all three  flap hinge ribs, all the common attach holes per the figure in the  instructions. Then final drill #40 the common holes between the lower  rear spar web flange and the ribs lower aft tab.

Make sure you read the direction closely on this step with is  countersinking the W1007C doubler plate.  The only holes that get  counter sunk on this double are the bottom 6 holes.  Then also  countersink the holes in the upper flange of the rear spar web that  correspond to the other double plates.

Disassemble, deburr all holes and edges of all parts.

Before priming, final drill #40 and dimple the first 26 most inboard  holes in the flange of the rear spar only.  These are the holes that are  just above the rear spare reinforcement fork.  The dimple the holes in  the lower ribs aft tab along with the holes that correspond to the lower  rear spar flange.

Once completed prep all parts and prime.

Last step is to reassemble all the parts once dried.  One thing to  keep in mind is if you decide to rivet the reinforcement fork and  doubler plates to the rear spar before clecoing to the ribs, make sure  that you mark the holes that corresond to the ribs so that you do not  install a rivet in one of those places,  very easy to do especially on  the reinforcent fork.  In addition to this, make sure that you study the  instructions carefully because not all holes get rivets here.  The  second to the last row of holes do not get riveted until you attach teh  aileron and flap gap fairings that come in a later section.

Rear spar is competed and now on to the top wing skins.

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Wing Ribs

Started March 2, 2010 Build Time 34 Hours

Looks like this could be another one of those sections that will test   your patience.  Well, off  I go.

Gathered all the wing ribs  and sorted them out, there are three  different types - W-1010, W-1011  and W-1012.  First these must be  straightened and fluted.  I found that  the after section only needed to  be fluted and not much cause the bow  was quite small.

It was then time to fabricate  support bracket  for the torque tube  support.  A simple process and just takes time.   Once completed attached  torque tube support, the fabricated spacer and  fabricated angle along  with the VA-146 Flange bearing.  Match drilled  all the holes clecoing as  I went.  Ready to be prepped and primed then  set aside for now.

Then moved on to clecoing on the flap hinge  rib and the flap hinge  bracket to  2 of the W-1010 and W-1011 wing ribs  (did them all since I  am building both wings at the same time) and  match drilled all the holes  into the flap bracket and the wing rib.   Did this also to the wing most  inner wing ribs that have the torque  tube supports on them.

It mentions to trim some of the flange  on one of the wing ribs for each  wing, W-1011.  When I first did this  was not paying much attention and  took the ribs that I just match  drilled the flap hinge brackets and  removed those flange pieces.  Found  out soon after that this was  supposed to be done to the other W-1011  wing ribs.  Have new ones  ordered from Vans second day air.

While I was ordering, decide I was going to add the electric aileron   trim to my build so that was is also on its way.

I then  attached all the wing ribs to the wing spars with cleco's.  Match   drilled all the #12 holes in the upper and lower attach points of the   forward most flange of the wing ribs.  Once completed moved on to match   drill all the #30 holes in the same flange.  Next match drilled the #40   holes in the upper and lower rib tabs and the flanges of the main  spar.

When the wing ribs are attached, I went back and checked  the direction  and made sure that each wing ribs was correct.  Good  thing as two of  them needed to be moved around.

Since all wing  ribs are now clecoed in their respective position, I took  them off one  by one, deburred, preped and primed each one as I went so  that I knew  that would be going back in the exact same spot as I first  attached  them.  Just before re-attaching each rib, I drilled the bottom  of each  to 3/4 inch for the conduit for wire runs instead of inserting  the  bushings.  Also drilled and inserted the bushings for the pitot  line.

All wing ribs have been put in place and riveted to the wing  spar.  I  inserted the rivets into the holes and to make sure that I did  not ruin  the alodine on the rivets, I covered each one up with tape.   This worked  our really good, the only problem was getting off the blue  tape from  the head of the rivet. 

One other thing that was a  major improvement to the riveting process was  the Tungsten bucking bar I  purchased.  Yes they are expensive at $130  for a small block and  contemplated whether it was worth it or not, but  now I know.  One of  the best purchases I have made for tools.

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Wing Spar

Started on Feb. 19, 2010 Build Time 23 Hours

Construction of the main spars started with  removing the protective  plastic from each spar.  I decided to work on  both wings at the same  time rather than each individually.

Located the main spar web extension and spar splice plates.  Clecoed  them into place and final drilled with a #30 bit.  You then take them  off mark them so they can be orientated in the same way they were final  drilled.  I then deburred, prepped them for primer, then primed.

Once the primer had dried, it was time to re-cleco the splice plates  and  extensions back into place and rivet with AD4263-4 rivets.

Next was to fabricate upper, lower, top and bottom wing box  J-stiffeners.  Cut to the length specified and then used spring cleco  clamps to hold them on to the main spar flanges, making sure that there  was 1/16th sticking up above the spar flange.  Once in place, match  drill with a #40 using the holes in the main spar flange as a guide.

Once completed, they are to be removed and stored for later on in  the  wing construction.  I decided to deburr and prime them before  storing.

Now that the wing box stiffeners are removed, you run a  #40 drill  through every 3/32 hole that was not already drilled.  There  are a lot  of holes.

Then on to countersinking all the holes.   Using a countersink stop, I  set it first to do the fuel tank  nut-plates and the holes for attaching  the side of the wing ribs, the  set a bit deeper for countersinking the  skin attach holes.  These are a  bit deeper because it has to accept the  dimple from the skin instead  of just a rivet head.

Now that all the holes are countersunk, I  prepped and primed the holes  for the alodine that was removed.  Once  dry, started to rivet on all the  nut-plates, 66 per spar. After all the  nut-plates are riveted in place,  the nut plate screw holes must be  countersunk to accept the skin dimple  and a #6 or #8 screw.  The  nut-plates must be riveted on before this  task because you use the  nut-plate screw hole as a guide.  Then again  these holes must be primed  where the gold alodine has been removed.

Finally all the holes have been drilled out, countersunk, nut plates  riveted in place and all holes re-alodined and primed.

The  next step was to fit the fuel tank attach nut plates and wing attach  nut plates in the web of the inner spar.  Good thing I double checked  all these plates because at first I had them placed on the wrong side of  the spar.  Good of been a bad mistake. 

The holes have been  match drilled, primed and nut plates riveted to the  spar.

It  was now time to fabricate the tie-down brackets. I decided not to use  the factory supplied pieces and went to Cleaveland Tools and purchased  the already threaded blocks.  They still needed to be cut to  size but at least the threads were already done.

The tie down  blocks have been clecoed to the spar, holes match drilled,  nut plates  drilled and ready to be attached but first prepared the tie  downs for  primer and primed.  Nut plates were attached after the primer  dried.

The last step of the wing spar is to attach the tied down brackets  to  the spar and bold on the Aileron Bellcrank Brackets. All rivets are  in  and bolts torqued to specs.  On to the wing ribs.

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Wing Kit Arrival

Well, finally after a wait of just over 6 months the wing kit was  delivered in two wooden crates.

Even though it was a long time  waiting for the wings, I was still  working on the empennage , so I  suppose it was not that big of deal.   Sure glad I did order it when I  did though.

Started unpacking all the items packed into these  two boxes.  Vans sure  utilizes every bid of space.  As I unpacked my  daughter helped me  unwrap, sort and inventory all the pieces.

At the start of the empennage kit, I put all the parts like rivets,  bolts, nut plates, etc that came in brown bags into storage bins.  I did  this again with all the wing parts as it made a huge difference to me  during construction.  Everything was put in its place and easy to find.

Now that inventory and unpacking are done, it is on to  construction.

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